16 November 2010

Making Emulsions

Today we learned about measurements. It is important to recognize if a recipe is giving directions based on weight or volume. If a recipe gives directions by weight, such as ounces or grams, use a scale. If measurements are given by volume, such as cups or fluid ounces, don't use a scale. Here are some useful volumetric conversions copied over directly from my notes:

1 cup = 8 fluid oz
2 cups = 16 fl oz = 1 pint
4 cups = 32 fl oz = 2 pints = 1 quart
16 cups = 128 fl oz = 8 pints = 4 quarts = 1 gallon
1 liter = 33.3 fl oz
2 tablespoons = 1 fl oz
3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon

As exciting as culinary math is, the highlight of todays class was making a vinaigrette and some mayonnaise which are both emulsions of oil and vinegar. An emulsion is a mixture of two or more immiscible liquids. The key to making an emulsion is adding a stabilizing agent which will prevent the oil and vinegar from separating. In mayonnaise, lecithin from egg yolks is the stabilizing agent while in a vinaigrette, mustard or a vegetable puree will act as a stabilizing agent.

When you are making a vinaigrette the oil and vinegar should be in a 3:1 ratio. You can use any type of oil and any type of vinegar. The only exception is if you are using a balsamic vinegar in which case you should use a 1:1 ratio for the oil and vinegar. Here is the recipe that I used in class:

2 tablespoons dijon mustard
4 fl oz red wine vinegar
6 fl oz olive oil
6 fl oz canola oil
salt and pepper to taste
optional flavorings: herbs, spices, minced garlic, minced shallots

Combine everything in a bowl except the oil. Slowly drizzle in the oil while whisking continuously. The whisking motion comes from your wrist so if your arm is getting tired you are probably doing something wrong.

I always imagined that making mayonnaise was some incredibly difficult task that took years of experience to master. It turns out all you need is good technique and a good recipe.The concept for making mayonnaise is essentially the same as for making a vinaigrette. All of your ingredients go into a bowl except for the oil. The oil is added very slowly in a constant, steady stream while you whisk. It is important to add the oil slowly because otherwise your mayonnaise will not get thick. You should also be as accurate as possible when measuring the ingredients. Mayonnaise is all about balance. Not enough egg yolk or too much oil and your emulsion will break. Not enough vinegar and your mayonnaise will taste flat. I chose to make spicy mayonnaise but if you want regular mayonnaise just don't mix in the chili sauces at the end.

1 egg yolk, reserve egg white for another use
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, or rice vinegar
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon water
1 pinch salt
1 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon sambal + 1 tablespoon sriracha (whisk in at the end)

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